Travel


Start location: Curtis Canyon trailhead _MG_3173.jpg
End location: Summit, Jackson Peak
Min altitude:
Max altitude: 10,741ft (3274m)
Min temp:
Max temp:

Jackson Peak Hike Notes

12-Jul-10, 16:45 – Start at Curtis Canyon trailhead.

Met woman part way up: “It’s cold and windy,” and “it’s just you and me” (and she’s leaving, i.e., I got the mountain to myself).

20:00 – at camp near small lake/pond between Goodwin Lake and Jackson Peak. Note: hang bear bag rope before drinking wine with dinner.

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13-Jul-10, 10:45 left camp for summit.

11:45 – summit of Jackson Peak.
13:50 – start down
14:20 – back at camp to break down.
15:00 – start back to trailhead.
16:40 – at trailhead.

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Quote from humor book written by a local on how to get good tips from the tourists: “if you’re sneaky, bring the change in silver dollars and two-dollar bills.” My change from Moo’s ice cream shop: 50-cent piece. Too bad I’m a coin collector, ha! Joke’s on you buddy!

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Start location: Los Angeles, CA IMG_3947.jpg
End location: Chicago, IL
Miles today:
Miles total:
Min altitude:
Max altitude:
Min temp:
Max temp: 102F outside Vegas airport (I didn’t leave the airconditioned building)

87F at 1am in Chicago

I celebrated being back by flushing toilet paper, ordering a coffee that didn’t come in concentrated form, and by drinking water from a fountain. This morning I actually opened my mouth in the shower.

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Location: Cajamarca, Peru IMG_1977.jpg

IMG_2109.jpgToday is our last day working in the Centro Medico “Padre Luis Tezza” in Cajamarca. Despite the fact that we were going to do some amazing sightseeing in the coming days, I don’t think any of us wanted to stop working  and leave the clinic.

The medical folks had a lot of patients, so it was a busy day. When everyone was done I tried to get them all together for some group shots – not the easiest task, especially with the camera-shy nuns.

One of them, Sister Sorrosario, was always giving me a hard time – via sign language she repeatedly claimed that if I took a picture of her my camera would break.

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Well, I got some photos anyhow, and printed one up as a gift for her. As she was giggling over the photo I pointed out that my camera still worked. She shot me a dirty look and got in line for the group shots.  :-)

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Start location: Cajamarca, Peru IMG_1437.jpg
Other location: Cumbe Mayo, Peru
Min altitude: 8750 ft
Max altitude: 11,550 ft.

Today got off to a rough start, but it was all my own fault. A late night in Usha Usha, after a rich meal with wine and Pisco does not make for a happy day of hiking at nearly 12,000 ft. Still, it’s hard to be miserable in surroundings like IMG_1441.jpgwhat we saw today at Cumbe Mayo, and the people in our group are just so positive and happy that it really makes living with a head cold, hangover, altitude, and everything much more bearable. Took me a while to convince the docs that I was suffering from very identifiable causes, and that diamox (altitude sickness pills) weren’t going to help much.  ;-)

I was worried, also, that the dulcolax would hit me at some random and very inopportune moment in the mountains. I woke up feeling fine, from that perspective, so I didn’t have a clue when it would take effect. I needn’t have worried – for about 2 minutes my stomach felt like it was going to explode, I dashed to the hotel’s toilet (Mat was showering in ours) and within 5 minutes it was all over and I felt like a new man. Neat stuff.

David: “We’re each having one and a half leches”, on ordering the classic dessert Tres Leches to share with somebody.

At some point during our walk around Cumbe Mayo we came across a large round stone used for ancientIMG_1454.jpg sacrifices, complete with a channel to allow the blood to run off into an aqueduct (ew). I needed a human to give the thing some scale and relevance, so of course we sacrificed Shah.

Once he found out my watch had an altimeter on it our guide made a point of asking me what the altitude was at the starting point of the ancient Inca aqueduct. He was a little miffed when, 4 kilometers further “downstream” my altimeter read that the water had flowed about 5 meters uphill. (He didn’t quite understand when I explained that my watch was only accurate to within a football field, give or take.)

Beth: “Can azythromycin be taken on an empty stomach?”
Shah, our team’s expert pharmacist: “…@#!$…whatever.”

After we got back to Cajamarca we had some free time to explore and check out the souvenir situation. I don’t have too many notes from today – breathing was about all I could muster for most of it.

Since it is a slow news day, I’ll briefly explain the process I go through to write one of these entries. Hopefully this will also help explain why it doesn’t always get done while I’m still traveling.

  1. Download photos from cameras. This is usually anywhere between 2GB and 8GB or more. Takes some time, especially since I need to concentrate and make sure I don’t delete anything. It should take even more time, since I should make backups every time, but, um… well…
  2. Replace memory cards in the cameras, format, and charge batteries if necessary.
  3. Edit RAW image files in Photoshop. This is both a technical and artistic step that usually takes between 2-5 minutes per photo, sometimes less, frequently more. I also add copyright and caption information to every photo at this stage.
  4. Batch process the large images into smaller web-friendly copies.
  5. Create online photo album on my photo website ( http://photos.nomadicfrog.com ). At this point I add a little bit of text to explain the album, make sure the dates are correct, etc. Since my website operates very slowly (I need to yell at my web host about that) this is a tedious process.
  6. Upload all of the small photos to this new album.
  7. Create a new post in my blogging software (WordPress). I use a template which I created, so that helps streamline the process, but it also is time consuming since I force myself to include a map (very slow application) and some basic statistics about altitude, temperature, etc. Creating the map, in particular, takes several minutes. (And all of the online stuff is slow to start with – add in a crappy third-world internet connection and it is usually a hair pulling experience.)
  8. Write some blah blah blah about the day.
  9. Insert photos from the online album. Again, the software is very slow in doing this. Sometimes so slow that the web page times out and it is impossible. Any techies out there want to help me with this?
  10. Format the post, make changes to the photo layout and format, proofread, publish. Obsess about every detail and make a few rewrites.

Since the whole point of the online journal is to wrap words around the images, it is essential that the photos are processed before I post an entry on the journal. Since there are so many slow steps to get to that point, I frequently don’t have energy or time – especially when traveling on a group’s schedule – to get it all done while on the road.

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Start location: Cajamarca, Peru
Other locations: Mountains outside of town towards El Galeno mine
Min altitude: 8750 ft
Max altitude: 11,700 ft

Today was a slow day at the clinic – very few patients. Found out that all of the cleft palate patients I had intended to photograph had already been treated by another group of visiting surgeons. I was looking forward to the experience, but it’s great that the people have already been helped.

Since it was fairly slow today, and I didn’t like intruding too much on the examinations and consultations, I worked on the portraits of the people involved with the project. I think I’ve got everyone by now. I’ve photographed everyone on our team “doing their thing” at least a dozen times, and thanks to enthusiastic and bored kids I have a million cute photos of the little guys running, wrestling, plastering stickers all over their faces, and just generally being kids.

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After clinic we had lunch, then headed up into the mountains. The idea was to see the villages and landscape where our patients lived and worked, and hopefully get as far as the area where the new copper mine will be located. We made it up to about 11,700 ft and 2 hours or so into the mountains, but for safety reasons – road conditions as much as or more than bandits – we had to turn around before reaching the mine.

Me: “I want to see the Southern Cross and play some CSN.”
Mat: “How do you play ‘CSN’?”, thinking CSN was an Xbox game or something. Young whippersnapper…

It was nevertheless illuminating to see the mountain villages. When a patient says “I have back pain” we ask IMG_8218.jpgwhat they do for work. They say “I work in my farm, carrying potatoes”. We might think of a farm, maybe a tractor, or little 5-pound bags of potatoes like at the grocery store in Columbus. Nope. No nice neat farm, certainly no tractors. Even if they had tractors it usually wouldn’t help since the fields were frequently on very steep slopes. And they carry sacks of potatoes big enough to make Santa Claus cringe. You can hear these things and maybe picture it in your head, but only after you’ve been up there does it really sink in.

Humorous aside: I frequently saw domesticated animals out in the fields alongside the road. They were sometimes running loose, but usually tethered somehow: tied to a stake in the ground, tied to a large rock (like a ball and chain), or even in one case just tied to a tuft of tall grass.

What’s thalidomide?
-A younger member of our group

After that we were back to Don Paco’s for dinner. Don Paco is this awesome little eatery near the Plaza de Armas in Cajamarca. Everything I’ve had there has been excellent, and I’ve tried many different things off the plates of other people in our group, even including the tuna cannelloni (I do not like fish, generally speaking). Tonight I was looking forward to the pumpkin raviolis, and they did not disappoint. Carlos, one of the mine guys, brought us a gift of some bottles of wine and one of nice Pisco.

The Usha Usha band

The night ended with a few of us in a bar called “Usha usha” (that’s what you say to a herd of animals to get them to move) where the owner was part of a band that played folks songs all night. At some point during a break I went up to talk to him, and ask if he knew a particular Spanish musician I liked. All of a sudden they were playing – and I was sitting on the wooden box drum! So… I drummed. Apparently held my own, too. What a blast!

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